Hair Color Correction | Correcting Unwanted Red Undertones | Creating Golden Blonde Hair

A while back, I received a call from a potential new client.  Her name is Janeth and she had found me on the internet.  I’m Laura, a hairdresser from The Mane Hair Studio (at Sola Salon Suites) in Torrance, CA.  One of the best independently owned and operated South Bay Hair Salons and Hair Color Correction Specialists.

Janeth before from front

Although the original color translated pretty on Janeth. She wanted to be a lot blonder.

Janeth had recently been to another hairdresser requesting hair color similar to Jennifer Aniston and was disappointed by the results achieved after that service.  Upon further investigation over the telephone, I found out that Janeth’s natural hair color is a very dark shade of brown, almost black.  I explained to her that becoming a blonde when your natural shade is so dark is time-consuming and costly.  She was ready for both the time in my chair and the price that comes with it.

Janeth Top of Hair

Janeth sent me this photo in a text message after our first telephone consultation.

After several minutes of telephone consultation, I asked Janeth to send me a photograph so that I could see the current state of her hair color.  From the photo I received, I was able to determine that I could help her meet her goals and made an appointment to see her the following Friday.

The first hairdresser had achieved the results shown in these two photos.  After receiving the photo of the top of Janeth’s hair, I explained that she could expect to be with me for 3 to 4 hours.

Janeth’s natural hair had already been lifted. In other words, her hair color now had exposed warmth of deep red undertones with stripes of golden highlights.  This created a complex puzzle for me to work with, as I was now about to re-create the wheel so to speak.

Now that Janeth was in my chair, she explained that she had a new goal.  It was to achieve a color similar to Beth Ostronsky (which is almost a platinum blonde and achieved with a traditional foil highlight, therefore, it has a softer appearance as it grows out).  I can only speculate, but, I believe that Beth’s natural hair color is probably a light brown. I explained to Janeth that achieving the same results from her current hair color was going to be challenging to say the least.  This new goal might have to be long term.  But, I would happily help her work toward that goal.

This is what Janeth’s hair color looked like after 3 hours of hair color correction.

Janeth after from the back

Janeth after close up

Before, during and after my services, I explained many things to Janeth about maintaining her hair color using the proper shampoos, conditioners and styling aids, as well as, her need to return for regrowth touch ups every 5-6 weeks.  In addition, we talked about potentially making her even blonder in the future.  As a result, maintaining the health of her hair by adding regular trims to her routine will be very important too.

I will also begin to plan a long-term goal for her hair care maintenance.  For example, maybe we can simply retouch her roots with a high lift tint next time I see her.  My future approach will be based on several things, how often she comes to see me, her goals at the time, what it takes to meet those goals and her budget.

Hair Color Correction | From Cool Red to Neutral Blonde | South Bay Hairdresser

One of the biggest challenges hairdressers face is hair color correction (for example, taking clients from box red’s to blonde). It’s time consuming and can be expensive. But, getting it right makes it well worth it.  This blog is dedicated to the box color girls and women that are in need of a change. Those that are ready to come back to a professional to get the job done right. When done well, color correction can have minimal damage and look great.

Recently, my new client Donna was one of these women. Here’s a photo of Donna from our initial consultation.

Our initial consultation.

She explained that she had been a red head for about 10 years.  She had been coloring her own hair, using do it yourself cool reds.  In addition, she had recently had hair extensions.  The nearly black color on the bottom of her hair (shown in the picture), had come from matching the extensions.  Although, the extensions where gone, the dark hair color remained.

Donna was ready for my help and was willing to go through the necessary steps to become a blonde.  She seemed rather knowledgeable on the subject and understood that this would be a process, not just a simple fix.

There are many different hair color removers on the market.  For Donna, I decided to use Rusk Eliminate.  It works great without damage.  I followed the package directions mixing steps 1 with 2 and applied and processed it twice.  With each application, she spent several minutes under the dryer.  I followed those applications with step 3, to make sure the dark red pigment wasn’t coming back.   At this point, I was confident that I had achieved the lightest result I could get.

Before and during a hair color correction, there are many choices that the client and hairdresser make together.   We could have taken this correction in many different directions.  One approach would have been to simply highlight over the brassy orange hair that I’d achieved after using Rusk Eliminate.  Doing this would have resulted in a warm blonde hair color.  This approach can also be quite beautiful depending on the skin tone of the client.

However, I explained to Donna that she would need to give her hair a rest for about a week before we could continue.  She decided that she would rather be a neutral to warm shade of brown, than to live with the brassy result for a week.  In addition, in the end, Donna wanted to have a more neutral blonde hair color,  rather than a warm blonde.

Results achieved after appointment #1

I advised Donna to give herself a couple of really good deep conditioning treatments before our next appointment.  This would be in preparation for the highlighting service the next time I saw her.

This is what Donna’s hair looked like when she returned to me the following weekend.

As you can see during the week that Donna was conditioning and waiting for her next appointment, the neutral brown shade that I had put on her faded to a great base from which to start my highlight.

At this point, I did a traditional bleach weave on Donna with foils.  The result was a beautiful neutral blonde with very little warmth.

Results achieved after Donna’s 2nd appointment

I spoke to Donna the other day.  She’s almost ready to come back in for her first regrowth touch up.  She understands that for her, being a blonde requires maintenance.  She has continued to give herself deep conditioning treatments.

I had advised her that Joico’s K Pak Reconstructor is an excellent deep conditioner for these types of situations.

When I see Donna next, we’ll decide what route is best .  Some of the brass will have come back and I know she still wants to be even blonder.  There will be choices to make and budgets to consider.  But I’ll be there for her, to help her hair color dreams come true.